Call it mezze, tapas, a snack plate, small bites, cicchetti, whatever you want. But, throughout this pandemic, I've often called it lunch. These plates are equal parts utility and creativity. Quick, innately versatile, and largely no-cook, but with no sacrifice on deliciousness. And did I mention it's low on clean-up? Could the mezze plate save us from lunch doldrums? Let's examine the evidence.
Ex A. The centerpiece of a mezze plate is the thing that ignites the idea in the first place. One recent lunchtime, eggs caught my eye in the fridge but I did not want scrambled eggs (again). Ooh, deviled eggs. I noticed a lone cucumber to slice and sprinkle with sea salt. Then I thought about the lightly salty potato chips in the pantry. The Genoa salami in the fridge. And thus, the mezze plate took shape. Deviled eggs, my lunchtime North star.
Ex A1. Crostini get at the very nature of a good mezze plate: foolproof and flexible. Top with ricotta and a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt. Smash some avocado on there, squeeze a bit of lemon on top. Spoon on some pesto followed by smoked trout. Top it with diced fresh tomatoes that you've salted and peppered. Make your favorite tuna salad, pile that atop crunchy baguette slices and finish it with thinly sliced red onion.
Ex A2. The most common centerpiece is a dip, which inspires the many various things that could go with it. All signs point to hummus. Cue sliced cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, pita chips, celery stalks, carrots, leftover naan bread. Or Dorie's ever-popular spoonable ricotta, with likewise many vehicles for consumption from sliced baguette or leftover focaccia to a fridge's worth of crudites. Green goddess ranch, a nouveau dip for your consideration.
Ex A3. Not all leftovers are created equal. Some, like Yasmin Fahr's baked chicken and ricotta meatballs make ideal centerpieces. Same with Priya Krishna's roasted cauliflower and potatoes and Kameryn Tanita's turkey chili.
Ex B. Then, accoutrements can run the gamut, bringing necessary salty or crunchy or creamy or sweet to the whole picture. Olives make an appearance on many of my plates, as does a small pile of crumbled parmesan cheese. Marinated feta, marcona almonds or salty pistachios, a tumble of prosciutto (sometimes with cubed cantaloupe) or salami or roast turkey or shredded rotisserie chicken, all welcome here.
Ex C. If you're feeling ambitious enough to actually cook one element of your plate, there are many upgrades to be found: polenta fries, an excellent citrus salad from chef Sam Smith, sweetcorn pancakes, or my personal favorite Michelle and Suzanne Rousseau's chickpeas with cilantro and coconut.
Ex D. These mezze plates are not just for grown-ups. My four year old asks for them all the time, his featuring a pile of turkey or prosciutto, some cheese, a handful of pretzels, sliced cucumbers or radishes, avocado smashed onto crackers or crostini. Fruit almost always makes its way onto his plate, too: berries, sliced apricot, an apple.
Ex E. A sweet note at the end is an important piece of this puzzle and shouldn't be ignored. Lately, a few fresh figs have transported me to the Greek isles or the coast of Italy, so I'll keep indulging in those. A peach, in season, can't be beat. A bowl of sweet popcorn. I love a couple of medjool dates or a square of dark chocolate after lunch. Or both. A cup of barley or rooibos tea for help in further delicious procrastination.
Exhibits A-E show clear evidence to support the notion that mezze plates can, indeed, save the day. Stipulate. Concur. Jury. Objection! (Should I write a legal drama?)
MENU | Weekend of Aug 8, 2020
Playlist:
Music that makes you move, no matter your mood.
So, Cooking vol. 5
Pre-dinner cocktail:
Gin and tonic, fresh and light,
with more lime juice than you think
Menu:
Peppery arugula salad with avocado to start
A perfect roast chicken, courtesy of chef Marc Murphy
And bitters-roasted peaches and cream for dessert,
because it's the height of stone fruit season
Wine:
Viognier, Riesling,
or better yet, an entire bottle of champagne
Signing off with love and snacks,